Louis Aucoc Aîné (1829-1914) In Paris - Lady's Toiletry Kit. Around 1860.

Louis AUCOC known as L'Aîné (Paris, 1829 - Paris, 1914), Goldsmith and Tabletmaker in Paris, 6, rue de La Paix - Luxurious Louis XVI Toiletry Box for Lady from the Napoleon III period in Rio rosewood veneer set on the front and on the upper plate a sober inlaid decoration in gilded copper re-engraved with delicate motifs of ribbon knots raised with a double fillet and centered, within fine flowered acanthus foliage, of the number with the monogram "D R" intertwined with a count's crown.
Open, the dark flap of a standing toilet mirror reveals an interior sheathed in aubergine morocco richly furnished "with all the unimaginable tools for (the) sought-after toilet" of an Elegant woman of the time inclined either by convenience or by personal taste in traveling.
Thus, are presented on a removable honeycomb tray or housed in lockers, boxes elegantly covered in aubergine leather with the exact profiles and dimensions of the pieces collated, feminine and pretty utensils essentially dedicated to Toiletry. These are judiciously supplemented by a few accessories (inkwell, hourglass and pen holder) linked to the scriptural activity of a lady of quality seasoned with the charms of the Resort or the spells of distant lands.
  Perfume bottles (3), cosmetic boxes, powder boxes, etc. (5) and ointment pots (4) in cut crystal faceted with starry floral motifs surrounded by stylized foliage lists are set, on their refined geometric shapes, with stoppers, silver lids. Remarkably chiselled, these goldworked elements are adorned with a guilloche background with either radiating or parallel chevron patterns underlined by an surround of molded fillets, enriched at the edge on certain pieces (soap box, rectangular brush cases) with a feminine decoration of undulating knots of Louis XVI ribbon with braided tassels with very finely pierced openwork. All these pieces of work as delicate as they are graceful are "struck" - like the pieces mounted on ivory (hairbrushes and brushes for clothes) - with the chiseled or engraved number of the happy and aristocratic holder of this Necessary refined toiletries also enriched with accessories in tortoiseshell (combs, shoe horns) and, more prosaically, in steel (boot pulls).
“Of a perfection of detail beyond all praise” (1837), these pieces of “goldwork applied to the toilet” encased in their precious wood box inlaid with the same elegant ornamental motif characteristic of the Louis XVI style are carefully protected by a purple velvet pad on the reverse lined with a moire silk briefcase gusset of a similar shade.
A fine example of the "rich and sumptuous" Toiletry and Travel Kits from the Napoleon III Period intended for a wealthy and idle social caste, our "hand piece" (box with reinforced rounded sides with flush side handles) still equipped with its case transport bag in fawn leather bears on all of its pieces in silver or "first choice" materials (ivory, tortoiseshell) the hallmarks, the carved or engraved name of "AUCOC AINE", namely that of the most famous representative (Louis Aucoc known as L'Ainé) under the Second Empire of the then very Parisian industry of Boxes and Travel Kits. Its undeniable supremacy in this field will be affirmed in the years 1855-1856 by enthusiastic chroniclers (Henri Tresca, Benoît Duportail) dispatched to the Paris Universal Exhibition in these terms: " "The Aucoc House dates from the last century; it is the first in the world for the manufacture of rich travel kits"; "Aucoc is without doubt the first manufacturer of goldsmith's kits".
A prestigious signature
           With regard to this Feminine Necessary - delivered by Louis Aucoc Aîné to one of the muses of "his aristocratic clientele" - we will add to its description the remarks made by Jules Mesnard in 1867 following his stroll on the Champ de Mars near the windows of this prestigious house of goldsmithing and tablet making, which was highly acclaimed during the Universal Exhibition of the same year: "What seemed to me to mainly characterize M. Aucoc's exhibition is the distinction. The shapes, the decor of all its pieces were in perfect harmony with the style, and with everything I would call the very spirit of these pieces. Add to all this a very careful execution and taste, and you have a total that does honor to our goldwork. We will be of opinion on these last points, casting our eyes on Louis XVI toilet accessories (..). So, here, the lines speak of dignity and nobility. This goldwork would suit some Lady a eu haughty (height doesn't suit everyone). But she would have to be young and elegant. These garlands of flowers and these light ribbons belong by right to youth. In these lines, we thus find evoked the distinguished know-how as well as the noble formal and stylistic characteristics of the box and the goldworked pieces of our Nécessaire. Designed by Louis Aucoc, this ensemble is, due to "its very homogeneous decor, its graceful and light ornaments", dating from the years 1860-1870, a decade during which the Louis XVI Style triumphed under the aegis of Empress Eugenie.
Formal sobriety ennobled by luxurious materials, ingenuity of the arrangements highlighting the goldworked pieces and, more particularly the delicacy of the skillful work of openwork decoration chiselled on the edge on a guilloché background - a technical feat which will be the signature of Maison Aucoc -, allow us to bring closer together concretely our Nécessaire of the one called "Aux Armes de Napoléon III" from the Hermès Collection (see n° 71-, presented during the exhibition "Indispensables Nécessaires held at the Châteaux of Malmaison and Bois-Préau in 2007-2008) provided by Louis Aucoc Elder at the Household of the Emperor, of which he was the privileged Supplier in this area since 1853.
      Nowadays, objects of collectors or "lovers of true luxury, of that which combines grace and wealth", 19th century travel kits revive the memory of a refined art of living as depicted in it. Adolphe Bélot in a serial singularly entitled "The Drama of the rue de La Paix - therefore located in this prestigious artery of the capital entirely devoted to the Parisian luxury industry, to its distinguished representatives -, published in L'Evenement on May 28 : "In general, the Parisian's existence is entirely external, he is received more than he receives (...) Of all the rooms in his apartment, his bathroom is the one he frequents the most. Also, he takes pleasure in embellishing it. On this long white marble table, magnificent porcelain and silver bowls shine, bottles of all kinds, elegant boxes, ivory brushes of all sizes and for all uses. On the mantelpiece, a Barbedienne clock , a statue of Clodion, and here and there scattered a travel kit from Aucoc, a fan, a riding crop, a spyglass, a half-open book... It is perhaps a boudoir, a museum rather than a toilet, but it was charming."
Spanning the centuries, A.L. Levêque's remarks devoted to the Maison Louis Aucoc "specialized in the design and artistic manufacture of sumptuous necessities, luxurious travel kits" whose excellence earned its main protagonist the honorary title of "Supplier patented by the Emperor, the Empress and H.H. the Queen of England" as well as, from 1851 to 1878, high distinctions at the great Universal Exhibitions, remain just as veracious and even timeless as in their time: "Everything what Mr. Aucoc invents has a precious merit, it is apart from the inimitable perfection that he brings to it, it is, I say, the stamp of excellent taste that all these objects will always preserve. It's not a matter of fashion, or rather all these objects will always be in fashion" (Special report of the Universal Exhibition, Class 17).
Paris, remarkable French cabinetmaking and goldsmith work from the second half of the 19th century by the Parisian Maison Louis Aucoc Aîné. Napoleon III period, between 1860-1870.
  Materials: Rio pallissande, plain and re-engraved gilded brass; aubergine leather, velvet and silk; silver, vermeil, cut crystal, ivory, tortoiseshell; tain.
Dimensions: Box: H.: 17cm; L.: 34 cm;-Pr.: 25 cm- Protective case:H. 17.5cm;-L.: 38 cm;-Pr. 26 cm.
Signature under the lids, stoppers of the silverware and ivory accessories: "AUCOC AINE"
Minerva 1st grade hallmarks (950 thousandths) on all silver-mounted pieces: - Manufacturer: AUCOC Ainé.
Number on the box and all the pieces: initials "D R" stamped with a Count's Crown.
Paris, remarkable French cabinetmaking and goldsmith work from the second half of the 19th century by the Parisian Maison Aucoc Aîné. Napoleon III period, between 1860-1870.
Very good state of conservation. Pad varnished box. Functional lock with its "cloverleaf" key. Silver trim Complete with its protective pad. Toilet mirror to stand with central base removable by a small button located inside the lid of the box. Silver trim Complete with its protective pad. Beautiful condition of the ivory and tortoiseshell pieces. Original leather carrying case.
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Related literature: Mabille, Gérard, Dion Anne, Indispensables Necessaires, Exhibition catalogue, Musées Nationaux des Châteaux de Malmaison and Bois-Préau, October 24, 2007-January 14, 2008, Paris, RMN, 2008, pp. 54-56, Cat. No. 60 (Marie-Amélie’s Necessary) and Cat. No. 71 (Necessary for the Arms of Napoleon II).
Printed sources: Duportail, Benoît et al., Le Travail Universel: complete review of the works of art and industry exhibited in Paris in 1855, Volume II, p.514; -Tresca Henri, Visit to the Universal Exhibition of Paris, Cabinetmaking Boxes and Necessaries, Paris: 1855, p. 716-Woodworking Boxes and Necessaries;- Mesnard, Jules, Les Merveilles de l'Exposition de 1867, Paris: 1867, pp.231-232..;-Belot, Adolphe, Le Drame de la rue de La Paix, in L' Event of May 28, 1866, p;1-2;-Levêque, A.L., "Louis Aucoc Aîné, 6 rue de Paix in Paris- Special report of the Universal Exhibition, Class 17", in: Le Journal des Consommateurs, August 9, 1855.