Gold Lamé Cloth Vest – France Louis XV Period Circa 1770

GOLD! Circa 1770 France Vest with plunging basques in gold-spun cloth shaped with miniature diamonds dating from the end of the Louis XV period. Fitted cut, crew neck, complete with buttons covered in the same. Back and lining in ecru cotton. No holes or stains. Very good state of conservation, the lamé having retained its foil. Dimensions: Equivalent to size 48 Men France. Shoulders 38 cm, chest 95 cm, height 74 cm, waist 87 cm. Published and exhibited in the 2023 Villa Roweek catalogue. * “The body of workers in cloth of gold, silver and silk, formed in 1610, integrates within the same body the two branches of weavers, one – the velvet maker – is specialized in heavy fabrics , the other - the taffetassier - produces light fabrics. Taffeta was made in Lyon, Paris, Tours and Nîmes for the Kingdom of France, but also in England, Avignon, Spain and Florence. The plurality of names of these different taffetas tells us about the prosperity and specialization of certain European cities in the manufacture and trade of light silk fabrics: armoisin taffeta and “florence” come from Italy and are imported by Italian merchants in Lyon. Avignon made demi-armoisin and demi-florence, lighter than those of Lyon. The gros de Tours imitates and perfects the gros de Naples while the taffeta from England, considered in the 18th century as a fabric of exceptional quality, is also used by Lyon craftsmen. The diversity of places of production should not obscure the golden age of the “Great Silk Factory” in Lyon, reformed and modernized under the reign of Louis XIV by the decisive action of Colbert to distance itself from other European factories. » * extract from a publication from the Departmental Archives of Vaucluse - Avignon 2020