Hat Maker Allied Elder Maillard Paris, France Circa 1870-1880

HAT CONFORMER
Allié Aîné Maillard 
Paris, France
Circa 1870-1880
Wood, metal, bone, cork and mother-of-pearl 
H. 18; L 33 cm

Constructed like the skeleton of an articulated hat, reinforced by four lateral buttresses, this conformer is fitted with sixty ebonized wood rods, called keys. They are arranged in the shape of a crown and held together by a wide wooden ring riveted with twenty-four small mother-of-pearl rings. On the outer edge of the crown, the keys, embellished with cut-out sections of bone, receive a coil spring in their notch. 
The upper end of each ring is associated with a metal rod placed perpendicularly. Cardboard is placed over the spikes, and the movable lid is lined with cork. The pressure of the two rings on the lid allowed the spikes to mark the cardboard. The cardboard was then cut according to the dotted lines, and placed on a stud and formillon. 

Manufacturer's mark engraved on a round mother-of-pearl medallion riveted to the base, bearing the words “Allié Aîné Paris” in capital letters. Its founder, H. Maillard, patented the “Conformateur” in the 1840s. 

The inside of the base bears the award stamps “Exposition Nationale 1844” and “Société d'Encouragement 1846”. 

Whether for bowler hats or top hats, the conformateur was a hatter's instrument used to transfer the circumference of the skull onto a template, and thus determine the perfect conformation, adapted to the skull. 

Overall good condition.
Minor, but not serious, damage.

Bibliography: A similar example is preserved in the Musée du Chapeau.  

Text and photos © FCP CORIDON

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