Evening Pelisse Scratched Emile Pingat Haute Couture In Lamb From Mongolia - France Circa 1895

Circa 1890-1895 France Paris Dolman or Pelisse for the evening in Nile water wool felt with small Medici collar, scratched Emile Pingat, 30 Rue Louis le Grand Paris. Outer rim and collar in cream mongolian lamb curly fur (?). Starting from the collar and the shoulders, an eloquent Neo-Gothic adornment in Prussian blue velvet is applied with a rich trimming of tassels, drops and braids of gold thread underlined with fringes in blue silk chenille. Quilted lining in damask satin patterned with sprigs of lily of the valley. Provenance Gilles Labrosse collection. Some gaps in the fringes, lining consolidated at the level of the claw, only defects to note, the rest being in very good condition of color and conservation. Piece exhibited and cataloged at Villa Rosemaine in 2021. Dimensions: Equivalent size 38/40 France. Height 124 cm, shoulders 45 cm, bottom amplitude 240 cm. Emile Pingat (1820/1901) like his illustrious peers Charles-Frederick Worth, Jeanne Paquin or Jacques Doucet, was one of the greatest Parisian couturiers of the second half of the 19th century. The couturier, one of the founders of haute couture, is distinguished by a subtle use of ornament, unusual contrasts linked to a perfect harmony of proportions. The realization of these famous evening coats, dolmans or pelisses made him famous from 1880 because he perfectly concretized the silhouette of the Belle Epoque. The fashion house opened its salon in 1864 but was sold prematurely in 1896 to Wallès & Cie. Little is known about this illustrious couturier whose life is surrounded by a certain mystery. Emile Pingat died in oblivion in 1901 probably. There are few pieces by Emile Pingat in French collections, particularly in relation to his short career. Similar references: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, MET 2009.300.337 and 2009.300.141. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.38